From the sensuous sound of water lapping against the walls of Venice's
ancient palazzi to the intoxicating fragrance of citrus blossoms in Sicily,
Italy is a country made for lovers. Author Monica Larner-who has divided
her life between Italy and America since childhood-guides the reader through
Italy's most inspiring destinations, including romantic locales, exclusive hotels,
and tantalizing restaurants in her wonderful new romantic guidebook, In
Love in Italy. Dream of Italy editor Kathy McCabe
recently interviewed Larner.
Dream of Italy: I realize that this may be difficult to
describe or quantify, but what is it that makes Italy so romantic?
Monica Larner: A very big part of what makes Italy so romantic
is that fact that we – as foreigners – and the Italians themselves
recognize it as romantic. It’s a sort of self-fulfilling prophecy in which
we pay extra attention to the romance that the country offers: the fact that
“Rome” spelled backwards is “amor;” the fact that this
was the stomping ground of Saint Valentine and the fact that many of the icons
of romance – from Sophia Loren to Ruldolf Valentino are Italian. Italy
has sex appeal in spades: from fairytale castles to pristine beaches and three
very macho and temperamental volcanoes.
The Italians seem to divide their living space with Cupid. Young women at bars
are often served cappuccini with foam poured in a special way so that is looks
like a heart and conversations about love rank high up there with food and soccer.
And, of course, the link between food and love (symbols of freedom, abandonment
and indulgence) is very strong in Italy. Italy has romancer in its DNA. Think
back to the ancients when Eros and Aphrodite were literally role models for
the people. Fast forward to the modern day and couples like Tom Cruise and Katie
Holmes and all the others who choose Italy as their romantic backdrop, are in
a sense modern day Italian Cupids.
DOI: I know that when I visited the Santavenere
Hotel in Maratea, I exclaimed, “if and when I get married, this is
the place.” I still think it is one of the most romantic spots in Italy
(although Villa Feltrinelli on Lake Garda has recently joined my list.) Did
you have any places that spoke to you like that?
Italy tends to do that. It awards you with what I call romantic epiphany moments:
It’s an overwhelming sensation of perfection and happiness. Journalist
Luigi Barzini described it best in his 1964 book The Italians: “Italians
have mastered the great art of being happy and of making other people happy.”
You could easily replace the word “happy” with “romantic”
and the phrase is just as true.
For me personally, I get a jolt of adrenaline every time I land at the Palermo
airport. I find Sicily
very alluring and attractive and there’s something about making the
transition from the mainland to that drama-driven island with its bright white
sunshine and stoic people that is pure magic to me. There are also moments in
Rome, where I live, when the golden sunlight hits the church domes near Piazza
Venezia that remain vivid in my memory. No matter how many times I see
that beautiful play of afternoon light, the romantic impact is just as strong.
DOI: What was the biggest surprise you encountered while
writing this book?
ML: There were two surprises. First, I had originally planned
to include pinpoint locations in the book as the “ten most romantic places
to visit.” For example, my plan was to focus just on Stromboli for the
first chapter. But the more I got to know the south over repeat visits, I realized
that I could not just limit myself to Stromboli and the first chapter was expanded
to include all of Sicily. The same happened in all the chapters: Rather than
just doing Alberobello, I included most of Puglia
for chapter two and the list goes on. What surprised me was that there were
so many romantic things to talk about that the book grew far beyond the ten
most romantic places.
I was also surprised repeatedly during the research phase of the book. Alone,
with my little car, I drove up the entire peninsula starting in Palermo and
ending in Bolzano three months later to take photographs and research hotels
and restaurants. The people I encountered along the way were so overjoyed that
someone was writing a book about Romantic Italy that they extended every hospitality
– from keeping me company during dinners to suggesting new venues up the
road. The experience really became a communal one and underlined how important
romance is for Italy and the Italians: my mandate had become theirs. My quest
for romantic places had become a common goal and I got more suggestions and
stories than I would have ever expected.
DOI: Do you have a recommendation or two for the most
romantic restaurants in Italy?
ML: Yes, two.
Ristorante Grotta Palazzese
Via Narciso, 59
Polignano a Mare (Bari)
(39) 080 4240677 www.grottapalazzese.it
Built inside a marine cave, the outdoor dining area straddles a natural bridge
over blue water. You can hear waves licking at the back wall and watch kids
diving off rocks and swimming under your table. With surroundings that would
make any movie location manager weak in the knees, it’s no wonder this
is a favorite location for couples.
Solo Per Due
Via Villa di Orazio, 2
Vacone (Rieti)
(39) 0746 676873
(39) 0746 676951 (to speak in English, evenings only) www.soloperdue.com
If I were to choose one restaurant in Italy to bring to the attention of lovers,
it would be Solo Per Due. Impossible to find, it claims to be the world’s
smallest restaurant: as its name implies, it is “only for two.”
Open for dinner and lunch, the restaurant consists of a single, candle-lit table
with two settings. Privacy is assured and a silver bell is provided for summoning
the staff. If you reserve for lunch, you can enjoy the garden and peek inside
adjacent Roman ruins. At night, you can order a personalized fireworks display.
DOI: What do you consider the most romantic spots (could
be anything –including a monument) in Rome, Venice and Florence?
ML: Italy is full of romantic spots but if I were to select
just one, it would be the island of Stromboli. In fact, the idea for this book
was born 700 meters in altitude at the very active crater of this tiny Mediterranean
volcano/island. It is romantic for many reasons: This is a desolate, isolated
place perfect for those who want privacy and beautiful swimming opportunities
and of course the “male” symbolism of a volcano that erupts every
15 minutes is definitely part of its appeal.
DOI: If a couple is planning a honeymoon or anniversary
in Italy and they have never been to the country before. Where do you recommend
they go?
ML:First time visitors must see Venice.
It’s obligatory on any romantic itinerary. No other place in the world
is as surreal. This is a city with no horizon or background because the water
mirrors the sky and vice versa. It’s also spooky, damp and infinitely
romantic.
But visitors who have already seen Venice and the major Italian sites might
benefit from a trip in which they immerse themselves in Italian life, like renting
a farmhouse in Tuscany
or touring the Trulli region of Puglia.
DOI: Are Italians the biggest romantics in the world.
If so, how do they incorporate romance into their lives?
ML: I’m not sure about this. They certainly claim to
be the biggest romantics in the world, but this is tutto fumo,
niente arrosto as they say here (“all smoke but nothing on the grill”).
I don’t believe you can say that Italians are more romantic than say the
French, Americans or Russians. (Actually, since so many adults live at home
with mamma you could actually argue that Italians are less romantic). I do think
a distinction must be made: Italians are not the most romantic people on earth
by any stretch, but they are the people who most live within a romantic context/environment.
Romance comes very naturally to them.
DOI: Food and love are so closely tied in Italy. What dishes
do Italians consider to be aphrodisiacs – that might not seem obvious?
ML: Pretty much all of them. The very act of putting a piece
of food in your mouth is aphrodisiacal. The last chapter dedicated to aphrodisiac
foods was definitely the most fun to write and I did learn about dishes that
I had not previously considered romantic. For example, pizza is said to be an
aphrodisiac and there is even a scientific study that explains why (it has to
do with pizza’s appealing aromas and how they trick our brain to think
about things that make us happy, like love). All stimulants like coffee, garlic,
basil and hot pepper are aphrodisiac and all fish/seafood (this comes form the
symbolism of Venus stepping from her half-shell) are high-octane aphrodisiacs.
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