** NEW: On Rome's Via Veneto, The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone Re-Imagined (Free Italy Travel Advice) **
The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone
by Tennessee Williams brought
inspiration to my recent time in the Eternal City, taking me back to
its glamorous post-World War II era: Negronis at the Doney
and Rosati,
strolls along the Via
Veneto, sublime times in the
Borghese Gardens, dinner in Trastevere.
In the novel, Mrs. Stone is a wealthy, middle-aged signora
who lives in a luxurious villa flanking the Spanish Steps in Rome.
Recently
widowed, feeling lost and alone, she becomes entangled with a
devastatingly handsome young Italian named Paolo.
The only
thing I have in common with Mrs. Stone's story is the
middle-aged
signora part. My trip lacked her melodrama, but I still went after the
novel's atmosphere, which proved to be a beautiful background
for
fun Roman days…
Here are some excerpts from "The Roman Spring of Susan Van Allen":
My base is the lovely Rose
Garden Palace Hotel,
that's just steps away from Mrs.
Stone's beloved Via Veneto.
While the other hotels in the area
pay homage to Baroque or Neoclassical styles, the Rose Garden Palace (Dream of Italy
reviewed the hotel
in 2006 and we
loved it) is refreshingly
contemporary: ivory walls, chic
furnishings, and fresh flowers to add bursts of color. The upbeat staff
seamlessly pulls off a perfect blend of friendly and professional, so I
feel watched over in the best way from the moment I check in. I really
appreciate the free WiFi all over the place and what seems to be
especially flattering lighting... Or maybe my reflection in this
hotel's mirrors just looks better to me because I feel oh-so
relaxed here.
My room is a tranquil oasis: comfy bed, fluffy bathrobe,
spacious pale marble bathroom, good sized writing desk. In the morning
I wake to the view of rondini circling the clear spring sky and a
mesmerizing sight below: handsome uniformed guards at the American
Embassy across the street, ceremoniously ushering visitors in and out.
Mrs. Stone would highly approve.
If the sublime weather hadn't beckoned me outdoors, I would
take
advantage of the spiffy fitness center, which also has a sauna and pool
(rare to find in Rome). The hotel's most charming aspect is
naturally its rose garden, a narrow blooming courtyard that adjoins a
glass-enclosed dining room. I enjoy the roses every morning over
breakfast—a delicious buffet of everything from fresh fruits
to
pastries, cheeses, cured meats, and bacon and eggs for the American
clientele. I also have a wonderful light lunch there (fennel, orange,
olive salad), wishing my appetite was bigger so that I could try the
thin-crusted pizza some guests nearby are raving about.
Following Mrs. Stone's footsteps along the Via Veneto, I hit
these spots…
The
Doney
Restaurant Café in
the Hotel Westin Excelsior where
she'd pal around with Paolo and drink her Negronis. The place
has
been hiply renovated and is now celebrating the 50-year anniversary of
Fellini's La
Dolce Vita
with a special cocktail menu and happy hours every Thursday from 6:30
to 8:30 p.m.
The Marriott
Grand Hotel Flora (Via Vittorio
Veneto, 191) where 25 cartoons
drawn by Federico Fellini
are displayed in their dining room
until May 30. The drawings are a real scream, showing
Fellini's
appreciation of womanly curves.
Hotel
Majestic
dining room, (Via Vittorio Veneto, 50): This place has been getting
lots of buzz since June 2009, when young (and by the way molto bello)
chef Filippo La Mantia
took over and brought his innovative
touch: Sicilian inspired dishes that use no garlic, onion, or butter.
The lunch buffet in the airy, elegantly appointed dining room was
delightful. And it seemed like the spirit of Mrs. Stone came
through -- across the room was the devastatingly handsome actor and
Rome native, Raoul Bova
. (Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday
dinner.)
Going Further
afield…
Borghese Gardens Bike or Cart rentals: Bici Pincio (two
locations: Viale
della Pineta, Viale di Villa Medici; 4 euros an hour for
bikes) Mrs. Stone went horseback riding in this park, but I rent a bike
and
spend a dreamy hour gliding along sun dappled paths…the
smell of
orange blossoms perfuming the air, magnolias in bloom, mammas watching
their kids playing around the fountains.
Rosati,
Piazza del Popolo -- also a cocktail spot for Mrs. Stone and her lover.
I
make it a habit to stop here for an excellent Negroni and
people-watching. Open until midnight daily.
Alfredo
alla Scrofa (Via della Scrofa,
104) Mrs. Stone and Paolo go here on their disastorous last night
together.
At the time Tennessee Williams wrote the book (late 1940s) the
restaurant was a happening spot for the Hollywood glitterati.
It's claim to fame is that Fettucine Alfredo
was invented here in
1914, and the dish is still served there with much tableside flair.
Carol
Malzone and I choose to
dine instead at another Trastevere institution, Checco
er Carettiere (Via Benedetta,
10; closed Tuesday)
that's been around since 1936. Like Alfredo's
it's
been host to celebrities, but Cecco is lower priced, and packed with
locals. We haven't made reservations and walking in on a
Monday
night, we can't get a table at the restaurant, and are
ushered
into the next door osteria. The menu is an abridged version of the
restaurant's, and they do a good job with Roman classics.
Talk about atmosphere…Once again, the spirit of Mrs. Stone
seems
to be in the air… Suddenly at the table next to us, appears
a
most charming young man with a guitar. He serenades his friend, a
birthday guest, and then turns to the two American signoras and breaks
into song, with a chorus of Susanna, Susanna…
Mrs. Stone would highly approve.
If you're not in Rome this spring…
Bring the Roman spring home:
Watch The
Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone
(1961 version) on You Tube,
featuring Warren Beatty as the devastatingly handsome, pouty Italian.
Check out Filippo
La Mantia'sWeb site
and try out some of his recipes. The caponata
is excellent!