There is one reason to visit
Deruta. Ceramics. Period.
A small hilltop village, 15 minutes south of Perugia
down the E45 superstrada,
Deruta
has been the center of the ceramics making industry in Italy since the
1300s. It boasts dozens of family owned studios and
“factories” where local artisans hand-paint each
piece ranging from small butter dishes to ornate wall plates and
outdoor garden tables. Today traditional patterns, born hundreds of
years ago and passed down from generation to generation, exist side by
side with more modern styles, as competing artists vie for the almighty
tourist dollar.
Deruta consists of two distinct areas. The lower town
consists of rows of showrooms and retail shops in the modern,
non-descript buildings that line the Via Tiberina.
The older, historic and more charming part of Deruta is found on the
top of the hill. Here, too, the streets are lined with small shops and
you can often watch artists painting in the back rooms as they wait for
customers.
The industry here is made up of dozens of independent artisans, mostly
family operations that churn out hundreds of shapes in recognizable
traditional designs – like ricco deruta,
Raffaelesco,
green rooster – as well as other, newer designs often based
upon the traditional patterns. Because designs are not
trademark protected, successful design ideas are freely
“borrowed” with each artist putting his own
particular imprint on a design and leading to a variety of designs that
you can mix and match.
Deruta is not a place to shop for bargains. These pieces are
truly hand-painted, meaning a real human being has applied every brush
stroke to the piece. Even after years of experience, it still
takes hours of labor by master artists to complete each original piece
and each one is (and should be) a little different from its
predecessor, making each one a truly unique work of art. As
you travel through Italy you may find gift shops with bargain basement
prices, but stop in Deruta to buy your pieces of art.
One final note, if you have time while in town, make sure to visit the Museo Regionale della
Ceramica,
the regional museum of ceramics, which chronicles the development of
ceramic art in Umbria and houses a collection of pieces dating back
hundreds of years. (Largo San Francesco, 1; 39-075-9711000; www.museoceramicaderuta.it
)
--Suzy
and Bill Menard
Where
to Shop Geribi,
with showrooms on the Via Tiburina and just off the main square in the
historic center, is one of the most respected and copied artists in
Deruta. Run by Gerardo Rigibini and his wife Assunta, who
paint much of the studio's output, Geribi is credited with
creating many of Deruta's new traditional-modern designs,
patterns that are based upon the color schemes and designs of the
traditional renaissance patterns, but which emphasize brighter colors
and greater detail. Geribi's design ideas have been
widely copied in Deruta, but few can match his artistic heights and top
quality.
Via Tiberina Sud
Via Umberto, I
(39) 075 9711323 www.geribi.com
Cama,
also located on Via Tiburina, produces a handful of its own proprietary
designs that are unparalleled in quality. Every detail of
each piece, from the vivid, clear white glaze to the small raised
dollops on many of the pieces, defines perfection. No wonder
Cama was selected to present a special piece to Pope John Paul II.
Via Tiberina, 113
(39) 075 9711182 www.camaderuta.com
Where
to Eat
Make your visit to Deruta a full day, stopping for lunch at either of
our favorite local restaurants:
. Tavola
e Favola is a favorite of the
local artists and bankers. A relaxed atmosphere, friendly
waiters and excellent food make this a relaxing place for
lunch. Try the bistecca alla fiorentina
grilled in a wood burning fire and served at one of the outdoor ceramic
tables under a shady canopy.
Via Tiberina, 190
(39) 075 9710276
Closed Tuesday
La
Locanda del Bracconiere
serves a fixed price lunch for a mere 15 euros (their fixed dinner menu
costs slightly more). Start with a self-serve antipasti bar
and enjoy a home cooked pasta and secondo. You will find few
tourists here, mostly locals, which is always a sure sign of good food.
Via Borgo Garibaldi, 8
(39) 075 92353
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