The holidays have arrived in Venice. How do we know? Because just
before we all succumb to the effects of days that darken before five in
the afternoon, the city comes to the rescue, draping the calli
(passageways) with strands and strands of tiny white lights. The result
is instant cheer, and changes scurrying about in the cold from a
drudgery to a delight.
Another sign is the appearance of Christmas markets that pop up all around the city from mid December on, at San Bartolomeo just off the Rialto, up the Strada Nova, and even on Lido, just to name a few.
Looking for other holiday sights and sounds? The island of Murano hosts
the glittering festival Natale
di Vetro, or Christmas of Glass,
featuring "a constellation of events for getting to know Murano."
There's a variety of outdoor sculptures, exhibitions and presentations.
If you're In Venice for Christmas Eve, the Midnight Mass at the Basilica di San Marco
is be an unforgettable experience. The warm ambience of glistening
mosaics creates a one-of-a-kind atmosphere for the holy mass. The
service begins at 10:30 p.m., but do arrive earlier, as it's heavily
attended. Enter at the north entrance off the Piazzetta, and dress
warmly: the Basilica can be drafty on a winter's eve.
For eating out around the holidays, be sure to reserve ahead. Anyone
who is visiting will be seeking to eat at many of the same locales, and
recommended eateries will be in demand. There will be very few
privately owned places open on Christmas and New Year's Day, however,
as owners will spend the holiday with family. For eating out, you'll
likely be choosing between a reliable hotel restaurant such as the
Monaco or the Met, or opting for Chinese, pizza, or perhaps the
Cafè Florian on the piazza...at least to enjoy a cioccolato caldo
(hot chocolate).
If
you'd like to make it a musical holiday, consider attending the Concerto di Capodanno,
the New Year's concert offered by the Teatro La Fenice
on December 30th at 8 p.m., the 31st at 4 p.m., and on New Year's Day
at 11:15 a.m. Conducted by Daniel Harding, the first portion of the
concert is orchestral, while the second part features a chorus and
soloists performing Verdi's beloved
“Libiam” from La Traviata and
“Va Pensiero” from Nabucco
among other selections, perfect for ringing in the New Year. For
information on the Fenice concerts, call HelloVenezia at (39) 041 2424
or visit www.hellovenezia.com((
There are other musical offerings for both Christmas and New Year's.
From violins to Vivaldi to opera highlights, these concerts are all
held in opulent palaces: there is even one that includes a buffet
dinner held at the Scuola Giovanni
Evangelista,
another is a formal dinner and gala at the Palazzo Barbarigo-Minotto.
To book these concerts, stop by the tourist pavilion just outside the
Royal Gardens near the Vallaresso
vaparetto stop, or use an online booking service such as
www.classictic.com(( Of course, thousands will be celebrating New
Year's Eve in Piazza San Marco -- if you decide to join them, be sure
to check the aqua alta
forecast, bundle up, and remember: no glass bottles permitted in the
Piazza.
For
dining, reservations are always important in Venice, but even more so
during the holiday period. Many visitors will be seeking to dine at the
same popular locales, and any recommended eatery will be in demand. For
dining on Christmas and New Year's Day, there will be few privately
owned restaurants open, so you'll likely be choosing a reliable hotel
restaurant such as the Monaco or the Met, or opting for Chinese, pizza,
or perhaps the Cafè Florian
on the piazza…at least to enjoy a cioccolato caldo
(pure, hot chocolate).((No matter what activity you choose -- even if
it's simply wandering the city -- you'll always savor the
special atmosphere that reigns in Venice throughout the holidays. Buone feste!((
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