Characterized by broad, sandy beaches in the north to more rugged terrain in
the south, Abruzzo’s 80 miles of coastline attracts visitors from near
and far. In fact, the region has 26 beaches on that meet the criteria of the
Blue Flag organization
which rates beaches based on water
quality, environmental management and safety. Locals recommend Alba Adriatica
and Martinsicuro on the northern coast of Abruzzo and Vasto
in the south. Silvi Marina, in the middle, is frequently on lists of
the best beaches in Italy.
While touring the coastline, you can’t help but spot a distinctly Abruzzese
institution – trabocchi. These are huts built on stilts on the
beach or the rocks with nets hooked on to outriggers, giving fishermen access
to deeper waters – and the fish there – without needing boats. The
chaos of beams, ropes and wood make from local trees or planks that have washed
up on shore can make for a bewildering sight but the trabocchi serve their purpose
well. With fishing not as plentiful as it once was, few make their living from
trabocchi but rather use them on weekends.
Slow Food has dedicated a bi-yearly festival called Cala Lenta
to the trabocchi – next one slated for July 2009. The event celebrates
the traditional seafood of the Trabocchi Coast such as scapece (fish cooked
in vinegar, garlic and saffron) and shellfish and potato soup. Special dinners
are arranged on the trabocchi themselves. You don't need to just visit Abruxzzo for the festival, as all summer long, local families arrange to cook
for guests on these historic “fishing machines.” The Veri family
of the small coastal town of Fuggitella owns Trabocco Pesce Palombo and offers
an authentic trabacco meal including fish stew, sole and mussels. (39-0872-60857)