This article has been updated for the 2010/2011 holiday season!
By Nan McElroy, Venice Blog
before we all succumb to the effects of days that darken before five in the afternoon, the city comes to the rescue, draping the calli (passageways) with strands and strands of tiny white lights. The result is instant cheer, and changes scurrying about in the cold from a drudgery to a delight. Another sign is the appearance of Christmas markets that pop up all around the city from mid December on, at San Bartolomeo just off the Rialto, up the Strada Nova, and even on Lido, just to name a few. Looking for other holiday sights and sounds? The island of Murano hosts the glittering festival di Vetro, or Christmas of Glass, featuring "a constellation of events for getting to know Murano." There's a variety of outdoor sculptures, exhibitions and presentations. If you're In Venice for Christmas Eve, the Midnight Mass at the is be an unforgettable experience. The warm ambience of glistening mosaics creates a one-of-a-kind atmosphere for the holy mass. The service begins at 10:30 p.m., but do arrive earlier, as it's heavily attended. Enter at the north entrance off the Piazzetta, and dress warmly: the Basilica can be drafty on a winter's eve.
For eating out around the holidays, be sure to reserve ahead. Anyone who is visiting will be seeking to eat at many of the same locales, and recommended eateries will be in demand. There will be very few privately owned places open on Christmas and New Year's Day, however, as owners will spend the holiday with family. For eating out, you'll likely be choosing between a reliable hotel restaurant such as the Monaco or the Met, or opting for Chinese, pizza, or perhaps the Cafè Florian on the piazza...at least to enjoy a (hot chocolate). If you'd like to make it a musical holiday, consider attending the the New Year's concert offered by the on December 30th at 8 p.m., the 31st at 4 p.m., and on New Year's Day at 11:15 a.m. Conducted by Daniel Harding, the first portion of the concert is orchestral, while the second part features a chorus and soloists performing Verdi's beloved “Libiam” from “Va Pensiero” from among other selections, perfect for ringing in the New Year. For information on the Fenice concerts, call HelloVenezia at (39) 041 2424 or visit www.hellovenezia.com(( There are other musical offerings for both Christmas and New Year's. From violins to Vivaldi to opera highlights, these concerts are all held in opulent palaces: there is even one that includes a buffet dinner held at the target="_blank"> Evangelista, another is a formal dinner and gala at the target="_blank"> To book these concerts, stop by the tourist pavilion just outside the Royal Gardens near the vaparetto stop, or use an online booking service such as www.classictic.com(( Of course, thousands will be celebrating New Year's Eve in Piazza San Marco -- if you decide to join them, be sure to check the forecast, bundle up, and remember: no glass bottles permitted in the Piazza. For dining, reservations are always important in Venice, but even more so during the holiday period. Many visitors will be seeking to dine at the same popular locales, and any recommended eatery will be in demand. For dining on Christmas and New Year's Day, there will be few privately owned restaurants open, so you'll likely be choosing a reliable hotel restaurant such as the Monaco or the Met, or opting for Chinese, pizza, or perhaps the on the piazza…at least to enjoy a (pure, hot chocolate).((No matter what activity you choose -- even if it's simply wandering the city -- you'll always savor the special atmosphere that reigns in Venice throughout the holidays. -- Nan McElroy Venice resident Nan McElroy is the author of Instructions for Use alt="" style="border: medium none ! important; margin: 0px ! important;" border="0" height="1" width="1"> and blogs at blog comments powered by Disqus
The holidays have arrived in Venice. How do we know? Because just
