A Few More Favorite Things: The Amalfi Coast (Free Article)
In Dream of Italy's October issue, Special
Report: Amalfi Coast, guest editor Barrie Kerper asked a few residents and
habituées of the Amalfi Coast about what they especially love about this
special coastline. We published a number of tips in the newsletter but didn't
have room for them all, so here are some additional favorite things:
Leni Attanasio, owner, with her husband, Palazzo
Murat, Positano:
the restaurants Acqua Pazza in Cetara; Da
Gemma trattoria in Amalfi; Capo D'Orso in Salerno;
Il Grottino Azzurro in Positano; Donna Rosa in
Montepertuso; and La Tagliata, between Montepertuso
and Nocelle.
Next To in Positano, a club with a new, modern look and
great drinks and antipasti.
the town of Conca dei Marini.
hiking up to Montepertuso and Nocelle in the spring and autumn.
a trip to Capri - but only if you stay more than a day.
Giulia Sersale, Supervisor, Plants and Flowers,
Le Sirenuse, Positano:
mortella, the beautiful Mediterranean plant known as wild
myrtle that thrives here. La
Mortella (the place of the myrtles) is also the name of the garden on
the nearby island of Ischia that was created by Lady Susanna Walton, wife
of Sir William Walton, a noted British composer. Designed by English landscape
architect Russell Page, La Mortella is one of the world's great gardens, with
rainforest trees, fountains, lotus pools, scented plants, olives, and wild
roses. HRH Prince Charles is the patron of La Mortella, and recently a book
was published, La Mortella: An Italian Garden Paradise, (New Holland
Publishers, 2002). DOI readers who are garden enthusiasts
may also be interested in the
Mediterranean Garden Society, .
the scalinatelle of Positano have some lovely little shops, such as Ferro
& Design and Idee d'Arte, with handpainted plates
and attractive objects. They're tiny stores on Via Leucosia, down
the hill from Le Sirenuse - just take the little stairway on the
right side off Via Cristoforo Columbo.
three restaurants on the spiaggia grande (main beach) in Positano:
La Cambusa, a typical Positanese restaurant with tables indoors
and out and delicious fried antipasti; Le Tre Sorelle, named
after three clever women who opened the restaurant in the '60s; and Chez
Black, where you must ask for spaghetti ai ricci, spaghetti
with sea urchins - the owners also have a nightclub, Music on the
Rocks, open in the summer.
Il Poseidon
hotel and restaurant (via Pasitea, 148, Positano). Brother and sister owners,
Monica and Marco Aonzo, have created a lovely atmosphere
where piano music is played every evening in the vaulted ceiling sitting room.
The hotel is on the opposite side of Positano with views towards Le Sirenuse,
and the restaurant serves delicious food.
La Buca di
Bacco hotel and restaurant in Positano. The restaurant is very good and
serves a specialty: palle di riso, rice balls - a Positano tradition is for
families to buy as many rice balls as they can and take them on board their
gozzo, anchoring a few miles away in a special place called la cattedrale,
the cathedral.
boat trips to one of three restaurants: Ristorante la Conca del
Sogno in Recommone (081.8081036), Ristorante Lo
Scoglio in Nerano (081.8081026), and La Taverna
del Capitano in Marina del Cantone (081.8081028). All of
these are en route to Capri, and are in beautiful fishermen bays and have
local fresh food.
hikes in the mountains. Guests at Le Sirenuse can participate in a special
exercise walk organized by our fitness center that goes up the stairs that
lead to Nocelle.
Delizia al limone of Salvatore De Riso (Pasticceria De
Riso, Piazza Cantilena, 28, Minori): this is a classic Amalfi Coast
dessert, a pale yellow breast of lemon-infused custard, cake, and cream. It
uses the indigenous limone sfusato, which only grows on this coast, and has
less acidity and more sweetness and flavor than other lemons. This was a historic
dessert that had stopped being made, and De Riso revived it.
the raw milk cheeses being made by Gregorio Avitabile and Rita
Cioffi from their goats and sheep, high up on the mountain above Amalfi.
No one ever looks upwards from that great coastal road, preferring to see
only the sea, but up high there are villages like Scala that are so steep
only mules can reach them, and the cheeses the animals make from those airy,
salty pastures are sublime.
The vegetable garden at Punta Campanella: Alfonso Iaccarino's
vegetable garden for his famous 2-star Michelin restaurant, Don
Alfonso 1890, is in the completely unspoiled, UNESCO-site peninsula, Punta
Campanella. It once housed a Greek temple, and has been left intact for millenia.
Alfonso and his wife, Livia, bought it when it was a wild jungle, and have
lovingly retamed it, planting it with dozens of varieties of native southern
Italian olive trees, and all the indigenous vegetables his kitchen loves to
serve. These are the luckiest vegetables on earth, as they look out on only
one thing: the island of Capri surrounded by the blue Mediterranean.
Faith Willinger, author of the upcoming Adventures of an Italian
Food Lover: With Recipes from 213 of My Very Best Friends [Faith's
book will feature about a dozen recipes from Amalfi Coast andCampania destinations.]
The fish cookery of chef Gennaro Esposito, at La Torre
del Saracino restaurant, in the town of Vico Equense (Via
Torretta, 9; 0818.028.555). This extraordinarily large, jovial young man has
a finesse of palate and hand that is rare to find, and his work with the locally
caught Mediterranean fish that the little fishing boats bring in each morning
is fantastic...worth the detour. His partner, Vittoria Aiello'sbabà
is also a favorite. Light as a cloud, but much more memorable! [baba
refers to the Neapolitan version of baba au rhum, a light pastry made with
rum and served with cream and/or fresh fruit.]
NOTE: For more favorite things, reviews of Amalfi hotels,
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