This article originally appeared in an issue of Dream of Italy
Simply to call him a tour guide
wouldn't do him justice. Enrico
Bruschini is so much more: historian,
art expert, professor,
author, gentleman, lifelong
Roman citizen, Renaissance
man. To see Rome, especially
the Vatican, with this
passionate storyteller is a
once-in-a-lifetime experience.
At the end, you can't
help but feel that you have
a new friend in the Eternal City.
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book, target="_blank"> , Cokie Roberts writes: "Immediately on meeting this distinguished art historian, Bruschini -- who has written several books on Roman art, excavated ancient Roman sites and directed the restoration of antique frescoes -- he becomes just Enrico, your friend." Bruschini and ABC newswoman Roberts met through Roberts' mother, Lindy Boggs, who served as the U.S. Ambassador to the Holy See from 1997 to 2001. Bruschini has close ties to the United States since he was named official art historian of the American Embassy in Rome in 1984. He later served as the embassy's fine art curator until his retirement in 1998. (In 1989, Enrico was named the Official Guide of Rome.) His work at the embassy made international headlines when it was discovered that one of the statues that the embassy owned was actually Venus by Giambologna, appraised by Sotheby's at a value of $18 million. After its discovery, the statue was exhibited at Rome's Capitoline Museums, as well as the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C. Visitors to Rome can now see it at the base of the main staircase of the American Embassy in Rome on the Via Veneto. Presidential Pals Through his work with the embassy, Bruschini, or Enrico as he asks you to call him, has come to know a number of famous Americans; that is to say, current, former and future presidents of the United States. Forget the rumors that George W. Bush never traveled outside the United States before he became president, says Enrico, for he showed Bush and his wife Laura, a woman of great intelligence, he recalls, around Rome when Bush was governor of Texas. In 1990, Enrico played guide to former President Ford and his wife Betty. Through the years, he estimates he has also shown about half the members of the U.S. Congress the wonders of the Eternal City. Yet, from the moment he first mentions him, you can tell who Enrico's all-time favorite guest is -- Bill Clinton. Enrico first met the former president and Mrs. Clinton in 1994, when he was charged with showing them the ancient Forum. The Clintons took particular interest in the rostri, where Roman senatorial candidates gave political speeches. The Clintons were so taken with Enrico that the First Lady singled him out when talking to reporters after their visit. "The first lady praised their escort for giving 'a wonderful reconstruction of what it [the Forum] looked like in antiquity,'" said one press account. Clinton promised to return for a more thorough visit of Rome and did so about three years ago, Enrico recalls. "I have no memory for the modern dates," he laughs. This time Enrico spent three days with the former president and his daughter Chelsea, and finally got to show him the Sistine Chapel, the corner of Rome for which Enrico seems to feel the most passion. Vatican Museums For those who have limited time with Enrico, choosing just what to see with him can be difficult. While Enrico's rates aren't cheap, what you get is well worth the price, but most of us may not be able to spend days with him.
However, if money is no object, you may want to do what one American oil tycoon did. He hired Enrico for a month to travel with his group by private jet, from Sicily to Venice, visiting all of the highlights in between. Enrico makes the ancient ruins come alive to such an extent that you can practically hear the roar of the crowds in the Colosseum and the hustle and bustle of everyday life in the Forum. While Rome may be Enrico's first love, Italian art is what makes his heart skip a beat. If you must choose one experience with Enrico, go with him to the Vatican. He will show you the works of Michelangelo, Raphael, Caravaggio, Bernini and Borromini as no one else can. Cokie Roberts expressed it so fittingly: "It's hard to believe he didn't know them personally." Enrico knows the Vatican so well that he was asked by the powers that be to author the latest official guidebook of the Vatican. Vatican Masterpieces, published in 2004, is sold in six languages at the entrance to the Vatican Museums and at kiosks throughout the institution. It's the first Vatican guidebook to note the author's name on the front. It's hard not to feel like you're with a rock star when you accompany Enrico through the Vatican Museums. During even a short visit, it isn't unusual for a handful of guides and sightseers to recognize Enrico, and to stop to say hello or compliment him on one of his books. Heard while in line to get into the museums: "Aren't you Enrico, from the American Embassy?" Heard in the Map Room: "I loved your book." Heard in the Sistine Chapel, addressed to his lucky guests: "You are with the most wonderful scholar in the world. He's the most important man in Rome besides the Pope." The last quote can be attributed to Brenda Nardone, a Mexican American tour guide now living in Italy. She admires Enrico so much that she had her group buy his book, and then tracked him down at the entrance to St. Peter's Basilica so he could autograph their copies. The highlight of the museums is undoubtedly the Sistine Chapel, restored to its full glory after 12 people took six years to clean the centuries of dirt off the walls and ceiling. One of the themes Enrico emphasizes throughout his tours of Rome is the pure genius of many of the people of yesteryear. He points out that those who cleaned the Sistine Chapel built the scaffolding in the same way Michelangelo had. "He invented the solution five centuries ago," Enrico says. Enrico had the rare honor of being invited to view the cleaning from atop the scaffolding. What followed was one of the highlights of his life. Since he was just a foot away from The Temptation and The Expulsion, he could see the lips on Eve's face and how Michelangelo used a tiny brush to bring out the small vertical lines on her lips. "We could see how Michelangelo was painting for himself; no one else was going to see this detail," Enrico says. Even more startling to this art historian was what he saw in Eve's eyes. Once the painting was cleaned, he could see fingerprints -- certainly Michelangelo's fingerprints -- in her eyes. Enrico touches his heart while recounting the story. "It was amazing to see his fingerprints," Enrico recalls, wondering if it was a message to future generations who might see the dried paint up close. That's another theme in Enrico's tours, one that art buffs and novices alike can appreciate: What is the meaning of these works and does the meaning change and develop over time? As much as Enrico enjoys instructing his clients, he seems to learn just as much from the questions and observations of his guests. One case in point is The Creation of Adam, on the ceiling of the chapel, which Bruschini believes definitely holds "a message for future generations." In 1990, an American neurologist observed that the mantle surrounding Adam is the exact shape of the human brain in crosssection. Bruschini theorizes this could be a message from Michelangelo, indicating that he saw the autopsy of a human brain. (During the artist's time, this was illegal in Rome, but he may have seen it in Florence.) A few years ago, an American gynecologist told Enrico that the mantle resembled a uterus, and the green cord flowing from it resembled an umbilical cord. "I've seen a lot of uteruses. That's my job," she told him. He has included this theory in his books. "These are new discoveries of the original messages. There are hundreds more to be discovered," he says with excitement. Besides being an incredible showcase of art, the Sistine Chapel also serves numerous functions, the most important of which is happening this month -- the Conclave of Cardinals who are meeting in the chapel to pick the next leader of the Roman Catholic Church. The uncle of Enrico's wife, the priest Fra Alfonso Rossi, was a close assistant of several popes. During the conclaves, he was charged with helping the cardinals, burning the ballots and helping the new priest into his vestments. The priest accompanied several new popes into a room of the Sistine Chapel in order to help them dress in their new white cossack and shoes. Often the new pope, mindful of the burden now upon him, would break down in tears. Fra Alfonso was there to offer him support. "Ah, it's not easy to leave the Sistine Chapel," says Enrico wistfully when it is time to move on, this coming from a man who has visited here hundreds of times. Ancient Wonders Enrico is an equally entrancing guide to Rome's Forum and Colosseum, places where it's definitely worth spending the day with him. History buffs and children in particular will be riveted by Enrico's tales of ancient Rome. Too many people simply walk through these places, referring to a few passages in a guidebook, but not really absorbing all the tales these old stones have to tell. Even if you're not with Enrico, do hire a guide -- it's worth it. Enrico begins his tour of the Roman ruins from the hill of the Capitoline Museums, overlooking the Forum. From the first stories he tells, it is clear that Enrico believes the ancient Romans were incredibly gifted as well as incredibly flawed. These two themes run throughout his commentary. From their remarkable architectural and building skills -- "The Greeks were better at everything except engineering," he notes, -- to their incredible knowledge, -- "They knew the world was round," he says, -- Enrico's tales of Roman accomplishment are unending. And they leave many of his guests with a new profound respect for this civilization. At the Colosseum, Enrico is clearly moved by the downside of the Roman Empire, the violent persecution of Christians. Thousands of Christians died here at the hands of gladiators, and at the mouths and claws of wild animals. From the 80 elevators in the floor to the movable roof on the top, the Colosseum is yet another incredible Roman accomplishment. Yet, Enrico seems to feel the ghosts of those Christians each time he brings guests to this place. While it is a model of Roman ingenuity, he also emphasizes the mixed legacy of the Colosseum. "As a Roman, I am really proud of this building, but I feel the terror of the people killed here," he says sadly. Again, modern lessons creep into the stories of history. "[Today] still, we use religion to kill people," he notes, and he adds one of the phrases he repeats again and again: "Nothing changes under the sun." Pointing to the black soot on some of the Colosseum's stones, he wonders how long this monument to history will last. "We've ruined more in the last 50 years with pollution than in the last 2,000 years," he notes. Whether theorizing on an artist's message or recounting sad tales of historical tragedies, Enrico never seems to tire of showing people the city he loves so much (99% of his clients are Americans). Through it all, he shows impeccable manners. He patiently answers questions of passersby who may have heard his commentary or need directions. The only distraction he allows are cell phone calls from his beloved wife Gianna. Like clockwork, he can never seem to remember which pocket the phone is in, before finding it and answering, "Si, Bella. Ciao." He wouldn't want to be doing anything else or be anywhere else. "The world is beautiful, but Rome & is Rome." The Details Enrico Bruschini can be contacted through his Web site: www.profenrico.com His rates for tours start at 450 euros for a four-hour tour. If you can't take a personal tour with Enrico, look for his new audio tours this summer. Enrico's Advice for Visiting the Vatican Museums In order to avoid lines, Enrico recommends individual visitors arrive at the Vatican Museums after 11 a.m. to avoid the long morning line. (Guides and their groups can enter ahead of others.) Saturday is a popular day for locals to visits. All other Roman museums are closed on Monday, so expect crowds that day too. The Vatican Museums have free entrance on the last Sunday of the month, but Enrico says it is far too crowded to really enjoy anything. Enrico recommends looking at the monitors at the Information Desk to see if the passageway between the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica is open. A silhouette of St. Peter's Square in green indicates it is open. That will save you time. blog comments powered by Disqus
