Updated from the December 2004/January 2005 issue of Dream of Italy

In the next few weeks, you will hear a great deal about an Italian city that

has flown below the radar for way too long. In the shadow of the Alps, along

the Po River, the city of Turin (Torino), will play host to the 2006 Winter

Olympics between February 10th and 26th. To Italians and foreigners alike, Turin

is often associated with one name or maybe two – Fiat and Agnelli. The

Agnelli family (who've become something of Italian royalty) built Fiat

into the world's seventh largest car manufacturer. Other industries opened

shop near Turin and the city attracted workers from the poorest regions of Italy.

So it might seem that writer Henry James was right when he said, “Turin

is not a city to make a fuss about.” Yet, despite its reputation, the

center of this city shines and offers surprises around every corner. Consider

some of these treats: Turin’s Museo Egizio has the best collection

of Egyptian artifacts outside of Cairo. The city is home to Europe’s,

not just Italy’s, largest open-air market (Porta Palazzo). This is the

birthplace of Vermouth, grissini (bread sticks) and agnolotti

(crescent-shaped ravioli). Once the movie capital of Italy, Turin is again courting

the world’s filmmakers and playing host to them with a growing annual

festival. And of course, who can forget the Shroud of Turin (Sacra Sindone).

In look and feel, modern Turin is the creation of the House of Savoy, the royal

family who in the mid-16th century, moved their capital here from Chambery in

France. They set about to create an elegant and functional baroque city with

perpendicular streets, homogenous architecture (much designed by Guarino Guarini)

and wide squares. Their palaces are now UNESCO World Heritage sites. To protect

their royal heads from the weather while moving from one palace to the next,

twelve miles of arcades were constructed.

The royals’ official residence, Palazzo Reale, is filled with

huge baroque rooms sporting high ceilings, marble walls, gilded furniture and

17th century frescoes depicting the history of the family. While the Royal Palace

is uniformly elegant, Palazzo Madama incorporates a hodge-podge of historical

periods. It includes the towers of the old Roman gate Porta Pretoria,

the 15th century castle of Ludovico D’Acaja and the spectacular façade

with hall and grand staircase by Juvarra.

In addition to royal history, Turin reflects the history of the Risorgimento,

the movement which led to Italian reunification. In 1861, Turin was the first

capital city of Italy, united by the Count of Cavour, who became the first prime

minister under the King of Savoy. The Italian Parliament met for the first time

in Turin’s Palazzo Carignano, which is now a museum devoted to

the Risorgimento. The Italian capital was soon moved to Florence and then Rome.

One thing that’s apparent in walking the streets of Turin and meeting

the city’s residents is that they live their lives in an understated way.

There are strict rules for decorum which are rigidly followed. Showing off is

frowned upon. In fact, reportedly, the Turin branch of Hermes is the only Hermes

store that offers unmarked bags for patrons to carry out of the store. After

all, who would want to rub it in that she just bought a new Birkin bag?

The understated Torinese have perfected the civilized art of indulging in the

aperitif. They seem historically bound to it as in 1786, one of their own, Antonio

Benedetto Carpano invented Vermouth (made from white wine added to an infusion

of herbs and spices). Locals flock to cafes in the early evening to enjoy drinks

and a light buffet. Indeed, each café has its own personality and traits.

Caffe Torino (Piazza San Carlo 204), a favorite of Fiat executives,

has a gold bull encased in the sidewalk at the front door. Patrons are encouraged

to step on it for good luck. Smaller, yet equally elegant rival Caffe San

Carlo is a few doors down. According to locals,

Caffé Roberto (Via Po, 5) serves the best bagna cauda

(a local specialty that’s a mix of olive oil, anchovies, garlic and cream).

Want to follow in the steps of Nietzsche? Visit Caffe Elena on the

immense Piazza Vittorio Veneto.

For a non-alocholoic treat, Turin-style, head to Al Bicerin (Piazza

Consolata, 5). Opened in 1763, this café, frequented by Alexander Dumas

and Puccini, has low ceilings and just eight tables, lit by candlelight. The

décor isn’t the attraction though, it’s the Bicerin, according

to the current owner, “the perfect marriage of coffee and chocolate.”

It’s a layered drink of melted chocolate, espresso and heavy cream. After

indulging, be sure to peek in at the incredibly ornate Church of the Consolata,

believed to be the site of many miracles, across the street.

Turin is famous for chocolate, particularly gianduja, a succulent combination

of creamy chocolate with hazelnut (and a later insipiration for Nutella), named

after the Commedia dell’arte character. The best place to get the candies

– shaped like three-point hats – is Stratta (Piazza San

Carlo, 191), a beautiful shop dating from 1836. Turin is famous for ice cream

also. In 1937, Pepino (Piazza Carignano 8), invented ice cream on a stick, known

as un pinguino (a penguin).

Once you've sugared up, there are a few more sights that are musts. The

most celebrated and controversial piece of cloth in the world, the Shroud of

Turin was brought to the city by the Savoys. Oddly, the sheet that reportedly

covered Jesus has been near or in several fires, the latest in 1997, in Cappella

della Sacra Sindone, the chapel built specifically for the Shroud. With a few

burn marks, the cloth is housed in the Duomo next door, in a crystal box, behind

a black curtain. Pilgrims are encouraged to pray in front of the Shroud, but

can’t actually see the original. It belongs to the Pope and he decides

when it can be displayed to the public. Next scheduled appearance – 2025.

And for a lighter activity, visit Mole Antonelliana (Via Montebello

20), a 19th century tower that houses Italy's national museum of cinema. On

display: a bustier and shoes once belonging to Marilyn Monroe the white costume

and headdress worn by Peter O'Toole in Lawrence of Arabia. Last year, Mayor

Sergio Chiamparino announced plans to develop the entire neighborhood with

a movie theme, including renaming some streets for actors Anna Magnani,

Sophia Loren and Marcello Mastroianni.

But first, Mayor Chiamparino is definitely concentrating on the Olympics

– the event that may finally bring his city its due glory. Swiss architect

Le Corbusier described Turin as: "The city with the most beautiful natural

location,” and the opportunities for exploiting that location for winter

sports are why Turn got the 2006 nod. The same criticisms leveled against Athens

seem to be plaguing Turin -- International Olympic Committee president Jacques

Rogge said the city needs to “show a sense of urgency.” Six billion

dollars is being spent to improve Turin’s infrastructure, including the

addition of the city’s first subway. (For more on how to plan a trip to

the Olympics - including how to get tickets and secure accommodations, see our

November 2005 issue - Special Report: Turin and Piedmont. To buy a

download of the issue, click

here)

Someone once said, “if there were no Rome, Venice and Florence, Turin

would be the most beautiful city in Italy.” Luckily, we have them all

and Turin brings unique attributes to the mix. For more information on the city,

visit www.turismotorino.org

More on Turin...

Where to Stay

Le Meridien Lingotto

Via Nizza, 262

(39) 011 6642000

Rates: Double rooms range from 125 to 290 euros per night,

with breakfast.

Turin’s hippest 4-star hotel is housed in a former Fiat factory which

appeared the movie, The Italian Job. The hotel’s 5-star wing

is called Le Meridien Art + Tech.

Victoria Hotel

Via Nino Costa, 4

(39) 011 5611909

Rates: Doubles are 154 to 173 euros a night, including breakfast.

This cozy hotel isn’t going to win any awards for interior design, but

there’s something charming about the chintzy décor. Friendly staff

add to the charm.

Where to Eat

Ristorante Del Cambio

Piazza Carignano, 2

(39) 011 546690

Turin’s most famous restaurant has been serving meals since 1757. Their

Pollo Marengo was invented for Napoleon after an early triumph over the Austrians

in the northern hills. The 66-euro menu di tradizione includes another must-try

local specialty, tjarin, an egg-rich pasta.

Conservatorio

Via Mazzini, 12

(39) 011 835002

Locals flock to this casual restaurant for excellent pizza and affordable meals.

Where to Shop

Via Roma for upscale boutiques

Via Garibaldi (which in 1969 became the first pedestrian-only

street in Italy) for everything else

La Gerla

Via Mazzini, 3

(39) 011 5604138

If you’re looking for unique gifts to bring home, stop by this lovely

year-old store selling organic products from throughout the region of Piedmont.

The chocolate bars infused with peppers, ginger or cinnamon, are delicious.

Ask to sample the strong and soothing Alpine elixirs.

Get a Guide

With so much history and mystery filling the streets of Turin, its well worth

hiring a native to fill you in on the details of this fascinating city. The

following guides are passionate storytellers and speak impeccable English:

Laura Sgarlazzetta

(39) 347 4137304

lauretta@inrete.it

Gabriella Bossina

(39) 335 6685231

Rates: Bossina charges 220 euros for an eight-hour day tour and 70 e for two

hours.

…or a Guidebook

There are few guidebooks devoted to the region of Piedmont, let alone its capital

of Turin. Published last year, Time Out Turin (Time Out Guides, $16.95)

is incredibly comprehensive, with detailed sidebars on the history of the city.

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